![]() ![]() Note: The design values shown in the table are for normal load duration and dry service conditions and are applicable to lumber surfaced either unseasoned (S-GRN) or dry (S-DRY or KD). In some cases even with pictures its hard to reach a definite conclusion on if something will work or notĪnd in some cases people here have outlined the proper way to meet code & build/wire something Or in case of a lot of people here each person could use a hair dryer in each bathroom ![]() and as luck would have it my heat did go out & I heated with wood & 3 space heaters for 3 1/2 days I've put enough electric in that I could put a space heater in every room if the heat failed Just for that one heavy snow/ice storm, that big party when there is a 100 people in the house, maybe that slate pool table, or the large saltwater aquarium I want to put in I went oversize on my roof rafters & floor joists IMO things should be built to code or aboveĪs many say.Code is the Min that you can build to & pass Others have reported lumber yards in their area do not offer this I guess I'm lucky to have lumber yards that will do this without cost Is the purpose of this site to help the DIY’R to properly complete a project from idea to end or how to successfully outlaw in your little remodel without hurting someone or something?Ĭlick to expand.I'm not sure what the part I put in bold means ?Īs much as possible I try to help people with everythig I canīut when they want to remove a wall & puit a beam in I will always say get the beam sized I see time and time again a post with pictures of a project in process with a question like “Is this wall load bearing, can I take it out?” or any other structural or mechanical question for that matter that would not have had to been asked if they didn’t skip one little step, “The Permit Process”. You (or someone else) draws up a plan for a proposed project submits that plan to their local building department and they will either approve the plan, reject the plan or say the 3x8’s won’t do, revise to a 3x10 and we’ll approve. That’s why we have codes in the first place and that’s exactly why we have the “Permit Process”. The last thing anyone wants is for a project to fail in any way that could result a failed inspection when trying to sell, creating more problems in the end than you started with or even worse, getting hurt. Well since it’s clear that you guys will always give the best information you can on a subject to ensure that the DIY’R competes his or her’s project up to industry standards and code, that’s great, I completely agree. I leave that to the unlicensed folks who have no professional license at stake. So occasionally I will offer what I believe to be factually accurate information that could be used by an individual to help with their design or installation. I only design projects when I have a contract with the person for whom I am doing the design, and I only take on a contract when I can personally visit the site. So I avoid designing projects for individuals on this site, since I would be potentially liable for the consequences of my actions, even if it were as simple as the individual misunderstood the instructions and improperly installed the beam. Additionally, I am subject to penalties for errors and omissions that do not apply to unlicensed individuals offering their opinions on chat groups such as this. ![]() As a licensed professional, I have obligations and am subject to laws and regulations that do not apply to unlicensed individuals. I have a license as a professional engineer in multiple states. Since you ask, I will tell you why the Engineer does not design the job for someone on this site. There is more to the design than simply sizing the beam, there are connection details and an analysis of the flex of the beam that should also be done at the same time the beam is evaluated for strength. Any structural engineer worth a nickel can tell you based upon an inspection of your site and a review of the loading what size beam you need, or in your case how much you can span with a specific size beam. If none of this makes any sense, let me make it a little simpler. Deflection is related to the fourth power of the span length, while maximum fiber bending stress is related to the square of the length, so neither factor scales directly with the beam moment of inertia. ![]() Maximum span is governed by the more restrictive of the deflection of the beam at the center, or the bending strength of the beam. The allowable span for a beam is governed by the moment of inertia of the beam (depends on the size of the beam), the maximum allowable fiber bending stress (depends on the type of wood and the grade), the modulus of elasticity of the material (depends on the species of wood), and the loading (dead plus live load, often governed by code). No, you cannot multiply the length by 1.5. ![]()
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